The first
week here in Florence was so busy and amazing and full of beautiful sights and
sounds that most of my friends here, myself included, almost forgot that we
were in fact here to take courses and be students. From here on out, every
Monday through Thursday I will be taking Travel Writing all morning and Pairing
Food and Wine for most of the afternoon. My Travel Writing course is taught by
a single British mother, who worked as a journalist for BBC in London for
almost twenty years before moving to Florence to write a book and teach. She
has a beautiful British accent, and is very, very intelligent. This past week
we have been reading ancient works of travel writing, from ancient Egyptian
stories to the letters of Christopher Columbus. This semester we will attempt
to define the genre of Travel Writing, which isn’t so much a personal journal,
but a broader reflection on culture and life. Often times we go outside the
classroom and explore and write about the city of Florence. Last week we took a
field trip to San Miniato al Monte, or “Saint Manias on the Mountain,” a church
that is set on a steep hill across the Arno river, which offers an even better
view (in my opinion) than that of the famous Piazza Michelangelo. We set off at
9am and took a walk up the very steep mix of stairs and switchback paths, and
crested the hill to a beautiful, ancient church. It was so idyllically quiet
that morning and very few visitors were milling around in the sweet summer
breeze that whispered through the cypress trees. Monks in white robes serenely
wandered the grounds, and I watched as a priest paused and watched the swallows
swirling in the air above the city.
We sat in
the shade of the monastery for our lesson that morning, then went inside the
church itself, saw the tomb of Saint Manias, and finally visited the haunting
graveyard behind the church. It was an enchanting, quiet place, and sported
fabulous carved gravestones, elaborate and intricate family tombs, and
surprisingly few visitors. I am not a city girl, and even though it was a
graveyard, I found the peaceful quiet supremely comforting. That entire morning
was a welcome change from the heat and noise of the city, and I was reluctant
to leave. In fact, I would have probably stayed the afternoon if it weren’t for
my growling stomach pulling me towards Panini’s and pizza.

My other
class, Pairing Food and Wine, consists of a half hour lecture, an hour spent
cooking, and another hour talking about the tastes and sensations of our meal
paired with various wines. My professor is very much the Italian cook – her measurements
consist of pinches, handfuls, dashes, and drops. Recipes, to Renata, are more
general guidelines. If a dish comes out different every time, that’s ok – it adds
personality. She is a marvelous cook, and in the past several weeks we have
cooked everything from Chicken Cacciatore to Tuna Ragu, to strips of fried
dough and chocolate cake. It is by far the best science class I have ever
taken.



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